Hydroponic Troubleshooting: Fix Root Rot, Algae, Nutrient Problems & More
Table of Contents
How to Diagnose Problems
Before you panic, follow this systematic diagnosis approach:
Step 1: Observe the Plant
- Yellowing leaves? Check nitrogen/magnesium
- Brown leaf tips? Potassium deficiency or salt buildup
- Stunted growth? Root issues or inadequate light
- Wilting despite wet roots? Root rot
- Holes in leaves? Pests or calcium deficiency
Step 2: Check Your Equipment
- pH: Test with meter. Should be 5.5-6.5 for most plants
- EC/PPM: Test with EC meter. Should match plant requirements
- Temperature: 65-75°F (18-24°C) optimal. Too hot = low oxygen, too cold = slow growth
- Water Level: Adequate height in reservoir?
- Pump/Air Stone: Running properly? Listen for gurgling
Step 3: Inspect the Roots
This is critical. Root color tells you everything:
- White/Cream Roots: Healthy. Good oxygen, no disease.
- Brown/Black Slimy Roots: Root rot. Bacteria thriving in low-oxygen conditions.
- Red/Pink Roots: Phosphorus deficiency or early stress
Root Rot (Most Common Problem)
Root rot kills more hydroponic systems than anything else. But it's preventable and fixable if caught early.
- Mushy, slimy roots (brown/black, not white)
- Foul smell from reservoir (rotten/sulfur smell)
- Plant wilts despite wet conditions
- Yellow/brown leaf discoloration starting from stem
- Stunted or no growth for 1+ weeks
- Black streaks inside stems
- Immediate: Increase oxygen. Lower water temperature to 65-68°F. Add air stone if absent. Increase air pump power.
- Remove Dead Roots: Drain system. Carefully remove plant. Cut away all black/slimy roots with sterile scissors. Keep white roots intact.
- Full Water Change: Drain completely. Rinse all system components. Refill with fresh water + nutrients. Check pH/EC.
- Add Beneficial Bacteria: Root rot is caused by pathogenic bacteria. Use beneficial bacteria supplements that outcompete pathogens.
- Hydrogen Peroxide (Last Resort): Add 3% hydrogen peroxide at 1ml per 1L water. Kills bacteria but also damages beneficial microbes. Use only if other methods fail.
- If Severe: Plant may not recover. Start fresh with new seedling in clean system.
Prevention is Easier Than Cure
Root rot causes: Warm water (above 75°F), low dissolved oxygen, high nutrients, poor water circulation. Keep water 65-70°F, ensure air pump runs 24/7, change water every 3-4 weeks.
Algae Growth
Algae isn't necessarily a problem—it's a symptom of a good environment. But heavy algae blocks light from roots and consumes oxygen.
Algae thrives in light + nutrients + water. You have all three in hydroponics.
- Block Light: Cover reservoir with opaque material (black plastic, cardboard). Algae can't photosynthesize without light. This alone stops 80% of algae.
- Clean Surfaces: Scrub reservoir walls and tubing. Remove settled algae. Algae spores float everywhere but won't grow if no light hits them.
- Water Changes: Fresh water every 3-4 weeks. Old water has accumulated algae spores.
- Reduce Nutrients: Excess nutrients feed algae. Don't overfeed plants—use recommended EC/PPM ranges.
- UV Sterilizer (Optional): UV sterilizers kill algae ($50-150), but blocking light is cheaper and more effective.
- Don't Use Bleach: Kills algae but also damages beneficial bacteria. Overkill—blocking light works.
💡 Algae vs Beneficial Biofilm
Algae (bad): Green/brown, slimy, thick coating on surfaces. Blocks oxygen, consumes nutrients.
Beneficial Biofilm (good): Thin, brown/white layer on roots and surfaces. Contains beneficial bacteria that protect roots.
Nutrient Deficiencies
Not all yellow leaves mean disease. Often it's just missing nutrients. Use this quick reference:
| Deficiency | Leaf Symptoms | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Nitrogen (N) | Bottom leaves yellow, veins stay green | Increase EC by 0.2, or add nitrogen-rich fertilizer |
| Magnesium (Mg) | Mid-canopy yellowing between veins | Add Epsom salt (2 tsp per 5 gallons) |
| Iron (Fe) | Top leaves yellow, veins stay green | Lower pH to 5.8. Add chelated iron |
| Potassium (K) | Leaf edges brown/burnt, weak stems | Increase EC by 0.3, or full water change |
| Calcium (Ca) | Blossom-end rot (black spots on fruit) | Increase calcium. Ensure consistent watering. |
| Phosphorus (P) | Purple/reddish stems, delayed flowering | Use flowering nutrient formula (higher P) |
⚠️ Check pH Before Adding Nutrients
Deficiency symptoms often occur with wrong pH, not actual nutrient shortage. If pH is above 6.5, nutrients lock up. Lower pH to 5.8-6.0 first, wait 3 days, then add nutrients if symptoms persist.
Pest Infestations
Hydroponic systems are less prone to pests than soil gardens, but they still happen.
Equipment Failures
Prevention Tips (Better Than Fixing Problems)
- Keep Water Cool: Maintain 65-72°F. Warm water = low oxygen = root rot. Use water chiller if room is hot.
- Run Air Pump 24/7: Never turn it off. Roots need constant oxygen.
- Change Water Every 3-4 Weeks: Fresh start prevents nutrient imbalances and algae.
- Test pH & EC Twice Weekly: Catch problems before they escalate.
- Cover Reservoir: Blocks algae light, prevents debris from falling in.
- Clean Equipment Regularly: Algae, bacteria, and salt buildup reduce efficiency.
- Quarantine New Plants: Don't introduce pests to your system. Keep new plants separate for 1-2 weeks.
- Monitor Root Color: Check roots weekly. White = healthy. Brown = problem.
Troubleshooting Toolkit
Stock these supplies to handle most hydroponic problems quickly.
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